🔄 Glide into effortless trailer control with the ultimate swivel caster!
The 29041B swivel caster is engineered to enhance trailer maneuverability with a 1,000 lb load capacity and 360° swivel action. Designed specifically for BAL Tongue Jacks up to 2,000 lbs, it includes a secure pin for stable attachment, combining durability and precision for professional-grade trailer handling.
Load Capacity | 132.3 Pounds |
Maximum Lifting Height | 25 Inches |
Brand | BAL |
Color | Black |
Item dimensions L x W x H | 29 x 13.5 x 4.5 inches |
Manufacturer | BAL RV Products |
UPC | 702028232257 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00702028232257, 07020282322570 |
Model | 23225 |
Item Weight | 28 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 29 x 13.5 x 4.5 inches |
Item model number | 0148.1048 |
Manufacturer Part Number | 23225 |
H**S
Awesome, just Awesome jacks!
BAL “C” JacksI normally do not write long reviews, but the BAL C Jacks are worthy of it.My 25’, 5500# travel trailer came with mid quality “scissor” jacks. They did little to stabilize cross movement. Lateral movement was entirely prevented with high quality BAL scissor jacks between the tandem tires.The stock frame mounted (front and rear) scissor jacks were mounted on the lateral frame which is about 14” from the sides of the trailer. The bumper mounted BAL C Jacks were installed on the rear bumper with 4” wide square “U” bolts. NO welding or drilling into structure of any kind. This mounting also allows the foot of the BAL jack to extend to the outermost side of the trailer, adding significant cross bracing (minimal side movement).Both rear jacks took about 20 minutes to install. The larger footprint of the BAL jacks minimizes additional blocking under the jack base.The photos attached should instantly make up your mind about the ease of mounting and more importantly the quality and size difference of the BAL jacks.The lead screw is about twice the diameter of the scissor jacks, and is entirely enclosed within the horizontal body of the jack. As compared in the photos, the tiny scissor jack screw is exposed and dangerous to anyone near the lead screws.I hope the photos sell the jacks to your mind.When buying any product online, I look at the star ratings. I usually start with the “ones” and “twos”. The spelling and mindless drivel makes me wonder why they even have a TT. The BAL jacks make it way to easy to mount. They are not flimsy when “Properly” installed. They are twice the weight and size of the scissor type jack. They are made in the USA! Get on board people!
D**S
Works for a 2019 Jayco Jay Flight 195RBW
My Jayco Jay Flight 195RBW came with rear stabilizer jacks but not front ones. That's a problem - but one these jacks solve easily. They are extremely well built - much better than the OEM rear ones (that are also by BAL, very odd). The cardboard packaging was pretty much destroyed, and Amazon placed the trashed box into one of their own for delivery. That wasn't a problem; the jacks themselves were intact and undamaged.For the installation, I needed the BAL 23205 connector ("C" Channel center piece) and the BAL 23200 Foot Pads for C Jacks. Both are available here on Amazon. You can see them in my pictures; they are NOT included with the jacks. You'll only need the center "C" channel if your RV doesn't have support for the center bolt (i.e., no crossmember). The 195RBW doesn't have a crossmember and will require the "C" channel.The #14 (1/4") self tapping bolts that came with the jacks is underwhelming and I don't have faith that it can support the jacks adequately. I replaced the stock hardware with (4) 5/16" x 3/4" Automotive grade coarse thread bolts. Those appeared to be substantial enough to mount the jacks to the frame, but the #14 bolts will suffice for the center bolt to the "C" channel portion of the installation.The installation isn't too hard, but I do recommend using a floor jack if you are doing it yourself.Overall, I am very pleased with the quality of the stabilizers, and I do recommend them over the stock ones. Get a set - you won't be disappointed.
R**A
Solid stabilizer jack
I bought this to replace a stabilizer jack on the back of my camp trailer that had a bent drive shaft. The old one was slightly smaller, but the new BAL unit came with self tapping mounting screws, so no problem. Glad I had a battery powered drill driver on hand with the right socket to drive them in easily. The jack does, however have a quite small ‘contact pad’ at the end. Since I will use them with some 12” square plastic leveling blocks I dont think this would be a problem, but with nothing I would worry that the jack ends would sink into softer soils or gravel easily. You may want to carry some blocks of brick, wood, or leveling blocks to place underneath. The replacement was much more sturdy than the OEM jack, so I will be replacing the second one on the other side soon, and will save it as a spare for the front should one of those fail. Great product, only improvement would be if they included a larger foot or ground pad to use with it.
S**Y
Must have
I ordered these to replace the cheap scissor jacks my RV came with. I marked installation with 3 stars due to I couldn't bolt them on my style of trailer, so I welded mine on, which in my opinion is better. Used them, and it was a big difference to my old cheap scissor jacks. Way more stable than scissor jacks, and easy smooth operation. Great quality and a must for upgrading your RV jacks.
J**N
Does What It's Supposed to Do
Sturdy, well made, easy to install after I went out and bought hardware for it. The box was damaged in transit and I couldn't tell whether the attaching bolts were originally included. There are multiple models so measure carefully to make sure you have the correct width and lifting height. They do hang down a few inches (3 1/2?) so factor that in if you have a clearance problem already. With my trailer, it's about 15-20 turns to lower each jack.The only complication during install is that movement of the joint where the horizontal crossmember and strut intersect can change the distance to the inner end of the crossmember, if that makes any sense. So if you hold the compressed jack up and measure for the holes and drill, then install the outer ends and crank the jack down to support itself during that part, then the hole in the inner end of the crossmember may not line up with the hole you drilled in the trailer. Just collapse the jack and push everything up flat against the bottom of the trailer like it was when you measured and drilled and it fits again. Took me a few minutes to figure out what was wrong.
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