UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch Selector 2 Computers Share 4 USB Ports USB Switcher USB for PC Laptop Keyboard Mouse Printer Scanner One Button Switch Adapter with 2 Pack USB 3.0 Cables

I did a lot of research and ordered a few units to test, this is the keeper! I had many questions prior to pulling the trigger and maybe my long-winded review will help someone else out there...SETUP:I am a gamer and a creative. I have my gaming PC hooked up to a 48" LG OLED. I recently added a Mac Mini to the setup as the "flagship" M2 Pro Mini FINALLY has HDMI 2.1 support (4K/120Hz @ 4.4.4. 10 Bit). I am also a custom mechanical keyboard collector FREAK. I didn't want to have to keep switching keyboard/mouse each time I swapped from my PC to my new Mac but I also wanted to make sure that a cheap USB switcher didn't fry my VERY expensive keyboards or computers! I did sooooo much research and landed on this unit and a 4 usb/4 PC StarTech unit. Well, I cancelled the StarTech as it was triple the cost, I only needed it for 2 PCs and this one works fantastic! I also asked around the keyboard community and people brought up this UGREEN unit time and time again...POWER:Because of my very expensive keyboard habit I was VERY worried about supplied voltages and of course back-feeding power. I used a USB multimeter to determine that there is ZERO power being back-fed to the computer's USB port when not in use. This is unfortunately a VERY common problem with some of the cheaper USB switchers/KVM. I tested power at the devices AND the lines going to each client and everything was flawless.HOWEVER I would HIGHLY recommend purchasing an external power supply!! I did notice that if it was bus powered that the 5v USB line would drop down a little too low for my taste and below USB spec. Probably wouldn't "harm" anything but one might experience wonky behavior from their devices, especially things like bright RGB keyboards, external hard drives, bus-powered audio equipment etc. I purchased this power brick unit - https://a.co/d/ienOG3u which I highly recommend! I also through a multimeter on the power supply and it passed with having very clean voltage. The power brick linked above is perfectly in spec with what the manufacturer suggests (5V 2A). With the external power supply connected the 5V line at the devices were now within USB spec (+/- .25v). With a full on RGB keyboard the 5V line was close to being on the money and was pulling about 400mA, right where it should be for USB 2.0 devices.NOTE: that the unit does NOT come with a micro USB cable OR power brick!MOUNTING & INCLUDED CABLES:I have a very large, deep desk and each machine is on separate sides of my 48" display. Another pet peeve of mine is cable management. I don't like having any cables visible on top of my desk or on the floor, with the exception of an artisan coiled keyboard cable ;). That being said running the USB cables included wouldn't reach with having the unit mounted under my desk. I mounted it with some 3M mounting tape (not included) but do note there is no mounting points on the unit so you're on your own there. I placed the unit on the right hand under side of my desk and can easily find the button due to the "ring" design of the button, it's very easy to find while not looking at. The only downside is that you can't see the status lights. I purchased some longer quality USB 3.0 cables and it was a non-issue on both PC and Mac! SWEET! To the PC I ran a 10' cable and to the Mac I used a 6'6" cable - remember the power brick is VERY important at this distance!! The unit comes with 2 x 1.5m cables (4.92 feet).Cons:- USB Devices will "Sleep" with the computers off but RGB keyboards etc will still be lit up if using the external power. This is highly dependent on the device and YMMV.- Once either client (PC/Mac) goes to sleep you can no longer wake them by jiggling the mouse/hitting keys on the keyboard IF it was switched to the alternate computer when it fell asleep. This is by design on both PC and Mac as a safety/security feature. It's no big deal though, you can just hit the power button to wake either type of machine and the USB devices come back alive again even at the login screen.- Switching is very fast when comparing to other units but switching is not perfectly instantaneous. It is usually about ~2 seconds.- Glossy Black Plastic = Finger Print Magnet!- Didn't include a power brick/cableThat's it! Hope you enjoyed the review! I do want to mention that I have only tested this with mouse and keyboard... I have no need for external storage or swapping audio devices or other high powered USB devices... BUT I do highly recommend this unit and I ALWAYS update my reviews if stuff goes sideways. So far I'm very impressed and extremely happy I didn't have to go down a rabbit hole of dozens of KVM/USB Peripheral Switchers. BUY IT (and the power brick/cable)!

I was at first very confused/disappointed that this switch was causing INSANE input connection issues with my mouse and keyboard, usually while playing games. I went through endless troubleshooting and all I could narrow it down to was this Ugreen USB switch. I couldn't shake the fact that since it was USB 3.0 it SHOULD handle everything without a problem. Turns out my mouse DPI was too high, lowered it form 1000 to 500 and then all my issues were immediately gone! My input latency is completely unnoticeable. This switch is awesome!!! Absolutely recommend. Only concern I have is that its USB A to USB A which could potentially be dangerous but the switch never gets warm so I'm not too concerned about it.

In use for about a month, and so far, so good. I see other reviews about product failure. We'll see. Probably a fifth star when it lasts a year.I'm switching a mouse, keyboard and Wacom tablet between two Windows 10 computers. I don't have room on the desk for two sets of keyboards and two mice. The Wacom is only needed on one computer, but the switch has four ports, so I let it go along for the ride. I might decide to plug it into the 'art' computer only, as it will give me some control of that computer then the keyboard and mouse are switched to the other computer. Meanwhile, the switch is doing exactly what I needed - move the kbd and mouse (and Wacom for now) between the two computers.The box is nicely sized, but very light. I have it on a non-skid pad to keep it from sliding around. The button is large and easy to press. There are two LED lights labeled 1️⃣ and 2️⃣. I can see the light, but not the label, so that's not useful in telling me where the kbd/mouse are assigned. Instead, I just push the mouse and look at the screen. I suppose I'd prefer if all the cables/connectors were on the back. That would mean a bit less clutter on my desk in front of the switch, which must be in an accessible location because I have to be able to push the button often. The box would have to be an inch or two wider to accommodate that. It's size in general is dictated by the size of the USB-A jacks and plugs mounted on the front. (Maybe the USB cables going to the two computers could be on the side. And it occurs to me that I could turn the box 90° so all the cables are on the sides.)I often turn one computer off (the other is a laptop that says on). If I leave the kbd/mouse switched to the computer that shuts off, there is no problem switching back to the 'live' computer.The device switches quickly. I have notification prompts and sounds turned on to let me know when USB devices are plugged in and disconnected, and these go off each time I switch. So three pings for OFF on the computer that they are leaving, and three more pings for ON from the computer they are being assigned to. Slightly annoying, but that is a Windows feature, not something the switch is responsible for (or can cure). That takes a while to complete, but the mouse and kbd are working right away.In practice here, the laptop has a single external monitor (the laptop itself says closed on a shelf). See the picture. The 'art' computer on the right has three monitors, so I'm used to a multiple-monitor configuration where the cursor just glides from one monitor to the other. My brain is now wired to expect that, and when I'm on the art computer, I expect to be able to just mouse over to the laptop's external monitor. I'm almost always surprised a bit when the cursor bumps on the side of the art computer's left monitor and refuses to go farther until I press the button. Also nothing the switch can fix 🤨

We now have two of these units for use in our small composition and arranging studio. They don't require much setup; just plug the cords into the back, run them to each computer, and hook them up. We'd advise getting power adapters for these if you intend to run anything beyond a mouse and keyboard, as it'll take some of the load off the computer, and provide necessary energy for using audio interfaces, digital synthesizer workstations, external hard drives, etc. without issues. This model works with any standard micro USB phone charger, so just pick up whatever one you prefer on Amazon.