PAC Premium Amplifier Add-On/Replacement Radio Sound System Interface Kit GM - PAC AOEMGM1416

I was looking for a budget system to put in my 2011 Silverado. I had already replaced all of my Door speakers with Kicker and was looking for something to fill the low end with so I bought 1 Kicker 10" enclosure and an amp. I wanted to have a system but didn't want a target on my truck by having a double din touchscreen easily visible. I started looking at options to add an amplifier to my factory head unit and discovered this Amplifier Add on Interface. I pulled the dash and factory radio and found this thing super easy to install. This interface has 4 connector plugs, 2 male, 2 female. You simply unplug the 2 male connectors that are plugged into your factory radio and plug them into the 2 females on the PAC Unit, then the 2 males from the Pac unit go into your factory radio. This thing is basically a "middle man" between your factory harness and factory head unit. I installed it, wired the system, and put the dash back together and tested the system. (My fault for not testing before putting everything back together) upon testing I noticed that I had lost both front door speakers. I brainstormed, checked RCA connection, and re-read some reviews on here and realized that I probably had a bad connection on the PAC Unit to the factory head unit. I pulled dash and factory head unit and turned the truck on to test, and I was right. Like others have stated the plugs don't actually "click" into place. They fit securely but you need to test the sound system before putting the dash and head unit back into place. I finally got sound in my front speakers by playing with one of the plugs, the hard party was getting the radio back into place so it could be bolted back in while still maintain the sound in the front speakers, I had to play with the troublesome plug a few times but I finally got the radio in place and bolted down while still maintaining sound to all speakers. I have noticed a little bit of static through some of my radio stations, not sure if its this unit or not. Overall this thing does what it's supposed to do and I would recommend this to anyone that has a GM vehicle wanting to add an amp to a factory head unit.

So you wanna add an amp and a sub but keep your stock radio for now? You'll need this or you'll be splicing wires. I am not sure if the gain pots have any effect on the main speaker outputs or just the RCA outputs but I don't think the volume is quite as high it was stock. Or maybe because of the sub it just seems that way now. Anyway, PAC says the output is linear 20-20k hz BUT that is based on input and as we all know, stock radios aren't linear in output. For example, bass is reduced at higher volumes to protect the stock speakers and keep them from distorting. What happens then is even though you have a sub now, bass is still reduced at higher volumes. Believe me it is waaaaaay better than stock but it isn't like adding an amp and sub to an aftermarket radio with flat frequency output. You had better get an amp with a remote gain control because you will be fiddling with it a lot to tame the uneven bass response. It isn't the fault of this module though, it's the stock radio causing the trouble. So if you don't want to replace your factory radio but want to add amps and/or subs without hacking into your wiring you're gonna need this.

I have an 07 Yukon with Nav and Bose. This unit worked exactly how it was supposed to. I plugged it into the back of my stock head unit, ran the Remote wire and front channel RCA's to my sub amp, tuned the audio levels to my liking, and now my stereo sounds great.There is confusion out there.. There are two different BOSE systems... the "premium" and the "luxury". They get signals differently. The premium uses a "dumb" HU that sends 4 channels of preamp full range signal to the "dumb" bose amp that splits the frequencies to the correct speakers (including the stock sub) and amplifies them like any other aftermarket sub. The luxury amp (it has 3 plugs on the side as opposed to the dumb amp with 2 plugs) does much more processing and gets its signals digitally.If this item did not work for you with your Bose system, it is probably because you have the luxury system. Look under your console to verify and look to see if the plugs going into the amp are on the front (short side) or the side (long side) of the amp. If they plug into the front, and there are only 2 plugs, the PAC AOEM-1416 will work fine.The rest of the bose speakers and amp will continue to work as before. I used it to add a mono amp and replace the factory sub with a custom box under my console and a pioneer 10" shallow mount. My system sounds great and the base is amazing for 1 sub. The only gripe I have is that it takes 10 - 15 minutes for the amp to turn off which had me worried until I figured it out. nothing like a dead battery because your amp stays on. I waited outside my car until the amp led turned off and I went to bed happy.

I purchased this adapter to ad an amp to my factory radio in my 2009 Silverado.It worked great for a couple of months, but eventually the unit over-heated. White smoke started tocome from behind the dash, and you could smell "burnt plastic". I pulled the dash apart and the only thing thatsmelled burnt was the adapter. i opened the adapter housing, and there it was. The glue they use to secure the circuitboard to the housing got too hot and melted. The adapter is now ruined. I have one mono amp and one 10" sub (max 500 watts),so i wasnt overpowering the device.I will buy a competitors product to get my sub running again.

I bought this to add the stock nav to my truck. on Chevy's with the Navigation they have an amplifier tooked under the center console, that is not available on every truck, I thought that by buying this I could use it to route to my aftermarket amplifier and then back to my stock speakers. Did not work as expected and when they tried to run it, all I could get was static on the speakers. I ended up having to get to RCA converters to run front and back channels.